Thick thread # 12
For a long time, I have had very thick embroidery digitizing cotton threads (Gunold Cotty 12) and I still don’t understand where they can be used and what they are embroidered with. After all, they are quite rude even in appearance. Maybe someone has experience using it? Please tell me.
The purpose of these threads, as I understand it, is to get machine embroidery similar in appearance to manual embroidery. But how? Even the advertising brochures of the manufacturer do not help much to reveal this issue but give only general recommendations for working with them and their purpose.
And the recommendations are as follows:
- Needle # 90/14 SES, and for thicker and heavier fabrics # 100/14 SES. It is better to use a needle, not an ordinary one, but a specialized one, as for metallic – it has a larger eye (DBx7ST for Sсhmetz).
- The bobbin thread is regular.
Not thick for a start.
The color card of this thread is not that big – only 52 colors, apparently, this is due to the difficulties in dyeing natural fibers. But, in any case, these are not too few colors to work with.
- From myself, I can add that it is asking to look at this thread:
- Increased hairiness of this thread will require more frequent cleaning of the machine
- We’ll have to dig deeper with the tension setting – increase.
- Reduce car speed
- Remember to use a stabilizer suitable for the type of fabric
Digitization of designs is likely to be very close in settings to acrylic (woolen) threads, and general recommendations boil down to the following:
- Great redwork designs.
- You can try motif stitches with long stitches
- Basic stitch density 0.8-1mm.
- Remove all short stitches less than 1.5-2mm.
- Increase the stitch length to at least 3-8mm.
- Do not use frames at all or only to a minimum. The density of the frames is low; the stitch length in them is also large.
- Do not use layered designs.
- You can increase the finished design created with regular thread # 40 by 20% without recounting the stitches.
Well, you have to work with this meager information and experiment on your own.
Here’s what I got from the results of embroidery digitizing services the first design option:
I had to tinker with adjusting the thread tension for a long time until I tightened the adjuster knobs to the very end. But all the same, the thread continued to loop. Most likely, this happened because I used the same needle as I usually embroider acrylic – 110 thick. This is what the wrong side of the embroidery looks likes:
Here are the conclusions I made: for such threads, it is better not to use a double or triple pass of a stitch – it looks very rough. One pass is enough because the thread is quite thick. And if you still want to make the line thicker, then there is nothing better than bean stitch or backstitch.
Stitch lengths for satins are optimal within 3-7mm. The stitches (1.5-3mm) are smaller, too, well embroidered, but they are short. I liked the density of stitches 0.8-0.85mm – it turns out pretty good coverage of the fabric and does not sag. I practically did not use frames, the only edge run infills.
Automatic bartacks work well, but I did increase the stitch length in them. The trimmer cuts this thread every other time and you can hear it by the sound, which is quite difficult for him. So, you need to limit the number of trims in the design or leave constrictions.
After this test, I decided to make the flower only with satins and simple stitches. Here’s how I got it:
The photo shows that long stitches (more than 8mm) begin to sag and the background becomes visible. Apparently, a rigid density for such designs will have to give up and make the density variable, depending on the stitch length. For this trial, I decided to change the needle to # 90, which helped me deal with the looping of the thread. But there are very few stitches for the size 110x110mm – only 2000.
Having embroidered this flower, I remembered that domestic thick threads made of natural silk were lying around:
I checked their twist; it turned out to be suitable – left. I compared to silk in thickness with cotton. They turned out to be very similar, except that the silk is a little thinner. Or, they just seem thinner due to the lack of villi:
And I decided to try to embroider the same flower with them, what if it turns out well? Then I can use a similar thread for different projects.
But I was disappointed. Despite the special thread strength promised by the manufacturer, it was torn all the time, especially on stitches less than 3mm long (the cotton thread did not break at all). Silk also proved to be very capricious in setting the tension. If you adjust the tension at a certain stitch length, then when you change the stitch length to a large one, the thread loops, and at a shorter length, it pulls the bobbin onto the face. In general, I was tormented and spat – something is not working out yet, I have not grown up to such threads. The best embroidery option turned out like this:
These are the mysterious thick threads. Most likely, only decorative stitching is good with such silk.